Sunday, September 17, 2023
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The tradition of trend: kilty pleasures

Le Kilt

It’s 30 years since Marc Jacobs’ fateful Perry Ellis grunge assortment, so a very good time for one revival particularly. This autumn I’m excited for the return of the kilt, the previous cash staple that straddles childhood nostalgia and custom (assume faculty uniforms and the Queen off-duty) and popular culture subversion (70s punk, 90s grunge, Cher from Clueless).

This season, Burberry has cleverly revived it as a youthful home code in an effort to ramp up Daniel Lee’s trendy Brit imaginative and prescient. For starters, there’s a barely-there silk chiffon model, alongside strong wool choices in purple test*(beneath), yellow* (beneath) and crimson* able to accompany the home test outerwear, blankets and sizzling water bottles that may adorn Gen-Z backs within the coming weeks.

Burberry kilt by Scott Trindle for Vogue
Burberry kilt by Scott Trindle for Vogue

You could possibly say the wheels have been set in movement two springs in the past with Miu Miu’s kilt-adjacent pleated skirts of each size (beneath) inflicting a stir from the runway to the highest of the Lyst charts, adopted by Lucinda Chambers’ daring uneven kilt for her Collagerie x Jigsaw collab final autumn.

Kilts are attention-grabbing as they’re rooted in Scottish navy heritage but are open to a lot stylistic interpretation. Based on this Met Museum explainer, they have been adopted by higher class ladies after WW2 in addition to English and American non-public colleges. However punks disrupted their genteel enchantment within the 70s, adopted by grunge within the 90s. Steven Meisel’s Vogue Italia shoot (beneath) nails the 90s second, whereas Bruce Weber’s nation romp with Stella Tennant reinforces the posh-punk incongruity (beneath). This Versus AW95 marketing campaign (beneath) additionally options aristo-punk Stella (so-called for the nostril ring she wore in her first UK Vogue shoot) placing her glam twist on the kilt with matching sporran-esque bag and heels.

Miu Miu pleated skirt
Vogue Perry Ellis Marc Jacobs Steven Meisel grunge
Stella Tennant Vogue Italia Bruce Weber
Versus campaign Fall Winter 1995

Most worthy of our consideration proper now nevertheless, is the Le Kilt reboot (high and beneath). A lesson in made-in-Scotland kilts, mohair wrap minis and superfine lambswool twin units, its accompanying equipment and very good styling marry old skool heritage with romantic insurrection in the absolute best manner.
Le Kilt
Le Kilt
Le Kilt


WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Le Kilt; Burberry AW23/ Vogue x 2; Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia; Bruce Weber for Vogue Italia; Versus AW95; Le Kilt x 3
NOTE: Most pictures are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate hyperlinks* and PR samples. Please learn my privateness and cookies coverage right here

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